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[teaching textiles]
Collection:CSM Museum & Study Collection
Maker: Mary Harper (1919-1985)
Medium: paper, ink
Object number: T.2024.42.M
Descriptionteaching material for textile design:
Folder named: Brocade Technique design detail front and back
.1 Black & white photo of an 18th century brocade that has been cut and pasted to form a repeat. 180 x 217
.2 Black & white photo of a brocade dress fragment. 253 x 206
Label pasted to back: #6343 LS – 20.57.225
French ca 1750, brocade silk, Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1920
.3 detail of .2, label on back: brocaded silk, plain compact cloth, … blue with polychrome design. 253 x 206
.4 detail of back of .3. 253 x 206
Folder named: Byzantine & early weaves
.1 Black & white photo of textile fragments with mask-like faces from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon (26.812/1). 130 x 180
.2 Black & white photo of textile fragments with birds and horned faces from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon (26.812/9). 130 x 180
.3 Black & white photo of textile fragments from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (no 365; 26.812/10) 130 x 180
.4 Black & white photo of textile fragment with leopard attacking a man, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 128 x 177
.5 Black & white photo of textile fragment with leopard attacking a deer, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 130 x 177
.6 Black & white photo of embroidered bag, back: Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 126 x 90
.7 Black & white photo of textile fragment showing a woven striped pattern. 205 x 255
.8 Black & white photo of textile fragment with birds & mitres in a mirrored pattern, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 180 x 126
.9 Black & white photo of textile fragments with a geometric pattern (BM). 185 x 180
.10 Black & white photo of textile fragment with dragons in mirroring within a frame (BM). 110 x 140
.11 Black & white photo of an early Sassanian silk fragment with birds & plants in a checked pattern from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (no 364; 24.577/2) 180 x 130
.12 Black & white photo of textile fragment with mirrored ducks. 163 x 180
.13 Black & white photo of textile fragment with mirrored ducks. 177 x 240
.14 Black & white photo of textile fragment with faces within a diagonal patchwork pattern, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 130 x 177
.15 Black & white photo of textile fragments with lions & birds in a border pattern from Akhmim (Panopolis in Upper Egypt (BM 1264-1888). 245 x 178
.16 Black & white photo of textile with birds inside octagons from Upper Egypt. (BM 243-1890). 245 x 185
.17 Black & white photo of textile fragment with birds & griffins in mirroring within roundels. 140 x 90
.18 Black & white photo of textile fragments with winged horses within roundels from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (no 376; 26.812/11) 180 x 117
.19 Black & white photo of a 12th century textile fragment with a lion from Regensburg (778-1893); Stone angel on verso. 181 x 120
.20 Black & white photo of a 12th century textile fragment with a lion from Regensburg (778-1893). 181 x 120
.21 Black & white photo of a 7th century textile with a lion within a roundel from the Musee Nazionale in Ravenna (42049). 198 x 250
.22 Black & white photo of a Carolingian textile fragment with Mary & Angel Gabriel from the Vatican Museum (29811). 200 x 255
.23 Black & white photo of 7th century textile fragments with a man & lion within a roundel and winged horses facing one above the other facing opposite directions from the Vatican Museum (29815). 193 x 255
.24 Black & white photo of a Carolingian textile fragment with hunters, leopards & lions from the Vatican Museum (29814). 255 x 197
.25 Black & white photo of textile fragment with hunters on horse with dogs & lions within a roundel. 243 x 220
.26 Black & white photo of textile fragment with hunters & lion within roundel. 120 x 205
.27 Black & white photo of textile fragment with hunters & lion within roundel. 177 x 240
Folder named Embroidery, Ascoli Piceno cope, 2 x white work & printed gloves:
.1 Black & white photo of Ascoli Piceno 1275-1280, 16 scenes from the lives of the popes from Clement I (90-100) to Clement IV (1265-1268). Given to Ascoli by Pope Nicholas IV (1288). 203 x 380
.2 Black & white photo of white work: detail of Lenten altar cloth with scenes from the passion of Christ (mid 13th century) 255 x 203
.3 Black & white photo of white work: stomacher 257 x 203
.4 Black & white photo of 3 early 19th century plate printed leather gloves at the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (26.90) 180 x 233
Folder named Looms:
.1 Black & white photo of a Mochica Calssic Period pottery vessel (pre-Columbian Peru 100 BC – 500AD) showing weavers with backstrap looms
.2 Black & white photo of a Chinese drawloom (illustration is from a set showing the steps in the sericulture process issued by the government in the late seventeenth century)
.3 Black & white photo of a Chinese drawloom (illustration is from a set showing the steps in the sericulture process issued by the government in the late seventeenth century)
.4 Black & white photo of a print of a weaver at a Spitalfields drawloom
.5 Black & white photo of a print of a weaver and spinner at a Spitalfields Jacquard loom in a the home
Folder named Coptic:
.1 Black & white photo of woven roundel with human figures (MWI no 8441) 133 x 210
.2 Black & white photo of 7th century woven border with birds & ram (MWI no 8875) 195 x 145
.3 Black & white photo of textile fragment with faces in repeat pattern at the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (2808) 260 x 215
.4 Black & white photo of textile fragment with 3 figures under columned arches 198 x 240
.5 Black & white photo of textile fragment with central roundel of man & horse with border of figures with birds & fish, other figures surrounded by figures 200 x 246
.6 Black & white photo of woven roundel with Madonna & child, Joseph? and man at a well with cows & sheep. 155 x 143
.7 Black & white photo of woven square with male & female. Bordered with leaf trail within two twisted columns. 170 x 247
.8 Black & white photo of woven roundels with hare & plants. 123 x 184
.9 Black & white photo of textile fragment with field of plants, border of papyrus & a large object in the lower right hand corner. 255 x 154
.10 Black & white photo of woven bordered square containing two figures & mythical beasts. 206 x 255
.11 Black & white photo of woven border with stars & roundels bordered with small circles with human figures & animals. 255 x 195
Folder named Repeats, various fabrics to demonstrate methods of repeat:
.1 repeat notes for 1st year students by Malcolm Cocks – 10 sheets, 1978. 297 x 210
.2 Black & white photo collage of leafy pattern in square repeat. 188 x 160
.3 Black & white photo of leafy pattern in square repeat. Smaller version of .2. 150 x 15
.4 Black & white cutting showing a Lucca 14th century brocade of a mirrored repeat; verso: 4 Lucca 14th century textiles, 1 damask, 3 brocades. 170 x 230
.5 Black & white photo of square repeat. 115 x 90
.6 Black & white photo collage of Morris’ Honeysuckle square repeat pattern. 188 x 273
.7 Black & white photo of square repeat thrown by zig zag lines. 142 x 96
.8 Black & white cutting showing an 18th century Italian silk in repeat from the National Museum in Florence; verso: an 18th century German silk damask from the Arts & Crafts Museum in Dresden. 230 x 165
.9 Black & white photo collage of birds among flowers in a ½ drop repeat, very nearly square. 155 x 245
.10 Black & white photo collage of fan shapes in ½ drop repeat. 155 x 225
.11 Black & white photo collage of flower repeat in a shallow ½ drop. 185 x 155
.12 Black & white photo collage of Voysey bird in tree design in brick repeat. 218 x 190
.13 Black & white photo collage of a pomegranate stripe in square repeat. 275 x 175
.14 Black & white photo collage of a pomegranate stripe in square repeat. 285 x 222
.15 Black & white photo of an Omega Workshop design from 1913 in repeat. 245 x 195
.16 Black & white photo of a conversational Cinderella design. 90 x 130
.17 Black & white photo of a Persian Garden design in brick repeat. 130 x 105
.18 Black & white photo of a Toile de Jouy style design. 204 x 130
.19 Black & white photo of a Persian woman in a garden. 135 x 100
.20 Black & white photo of a woven bird in brick repeat. 145 x 107
.21 Black & white photo of a lily stripe pattern. 85 x 112
.22 Black & white photo of a lily stripe pattern. 85 x 120
.23 Black & white photo of a cornucopia stripe. 95 x 120
.24 Black & white photo of a pattern of columns between sunflowers. 255 x 207
.25 Black & blue photo of an early textile fragment with birds & deer in mirror pattern. 146 x 108
.26 Black & white photos stuck together showing swans among reeds in lake. 240 x 180
.27 Black & white photos stuck together of botanical drawing. 220 x 177
.28 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .27. 235 x 152
.29 Black & white photo of trailing flowers. 203 x 125
.30 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .29. 240 x 153
.31 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .30. 240 x 157
.32 Black & white photos stuck together of botanical drawing. 194 x 240
.33 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .32. 203 x 128
.34 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .32. 240 x 153
.35 Black & white photo of a wavy stripe & flowers. 203 x 130
.36 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .35. 240 x 155
.37 Black & white photo of a wavy stripe & flowers. 240 x 153
.38 Black & white photo of a wavy stripe, lace trail & flowers. 240 x 155
.39 Black & white photo of a lace & chain trail and flowers. 203 x 125
.40 Black & white photo of botanical drawing of foxglove. 187 x 120
.41 Black & white photo of branch & flowers. 203 x 130
.42 Black & white photo of baskets, branches & flowers. 204 x 130
.43 Black & white photo of bamboo. 204 x 128
.44 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .43. 128 x 205
.45 Black & white photos stuck together of flowers. 230 x 310
.46 Black & white photo of Toile de Jouy style design. 203 x 125
.47 Black & white cutting of early 19th century woollen cloth. Verso: George IV hunting. 180 x 120
.48 Les Travaux de la Manufacture, 1783 V&A 1684-1899, used as a chair cover. 198 x 237
(See also Metropolitan Museum 26.233.8): one of the best known copperplate-printed textiles produced at the Oberkampf factory showing the complexity of the textile printing process. There are a total of fourteen different scenes depicting activities involved in the process. The designer, Jean-Baptiste Huet, and a female colleague are depicted outdoors sketching, dyers mix colors, and printers apply the printing bocks. The drying of the finished cloth on the grounds of the factory completes the picture.
Jean-Baptiste Huet, an extremely successful decorative painter, was commissioned by Oberkampf to create this design to celebrate the factory's award of the title Manufacture Royale. Huet was then named chief designer at the factory. The formula of individual scenes carefully integrated to form an overall pattern is used repeatedly in copperplate-printed textiles.
The factory at Jouy was founded in 1760 by Christophe Oberkampf (1738–1815). It was given the tile of Manufacture Royale by Louis XVI in 1783 and awarded the Legion of Honor by Napoleon I in 1806. It remained in the hands of the same family until the 1820s. Oberkampf received many other awards in recognition of the quality of Jouy's fabrics, as well as for advances in the science and technology of textile printing. The factory employed about a thousand workers during the late eighteenth century. Female workers comprised one-third to one-half the workforce at various times. Female printers earned half the pay of male printers.
.49 George der II, c.1727-1760. V&A T.229-1953.
Table cloth of linen damask. With a repeat design of the shield of arms of the City of London, a view of London and the Thames, and the crowned figure of George II on horseback. Around the figure is the inscription, 'GEORGE. DER. II. KÖNIG. IN. ENGLAND.'
Folder named: Brocade Technique design detail front and back
.1 Black & white photo of an 18th century brocade that has been cut and pasted to form a repeat. 180 x 217
.2 Black & white photo of a brocade dress fragment. 253 x 206
Label pasted to back: #6343 LS – 20.57.225
French ca 1750, brocade silk, Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1920
.3 detail of .2, label on back: brocaded silk, plain compact cloth, … blue with polychrome design. 253 x 206
.4 detail of back of .3. 253 x 206
Folder named: Byzantine & early weaves
.1 Black & white photo of textile fragments with mask-like faces from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon (26.812/1). 130 x 180
.2 Black & white photo of textile fragments with birds and horned faces from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon (26.812/9). 130 x 180
.3 Black & white photo of textile fragments from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (no 365; 26.812/10) 130 x 180
.4 Black & white photo of textile fragment with leopard attacking a man, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 128 x 177
.5 Black & white photo of textile fragment with leopard attacking a deer, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 130 x 177
.6 Black & white photo of embroidered bag, back: Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 126 x 90
.7 Black & white photo of textile fragment showing a woven striped pattern. 205 x 255
.8 Black & white photo of textile fragment with birds & mitres in a mirrored pattern, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 180 x 126
.9 Black & white photo of textile fragments with a geometric pattern (BM). 185 x 180
.10 Black & white photo of textile fragment with dragons in mirroring within a frame (BM). 110 x 140
.11 Black & white photo of an early Sassanian silk fragment with birds & plants in a checked pattern from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (no 364; 24.577/2) 180 x 130
.12 Black & white photo of textile fragment with mirrored ducks. 163 x 180
.13 Black & white photo of textile fragment with mirrored ducks. 177 x 240
.14 Black & white photo of textile fragment with faces within a diagonal patchwork pattern, Trésor de la Cathédrale Sens (Yonne). 130 x 177
.15 Black & white photo of textile fragments with lions & birds in a border pattern from Akhmim (Panopolis in Upper Egypt (BM 1264-1888). 245 x 178
.16 Black & white photo of textile with birds inside octagons from Upper Egypt. (BM 243-1890). 245 x 185
.17 Black & white photo of textile fragment with birds & griffins in mirroring within roundels. 140 x 90
.18 Black & white photo of textile fragments with winged horses within roundels from the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (no 376; 26.812/11) 180 x 117
.19 Black & white photo of a 12th century textile fragment with a lion from Regensburg (778-1893); Stone angel on verso. 181 x 120
.20 Black & white photo of a 12th century textile fragment with a lion from Regensburg (778-1893). 181 x 120
.21 Black & white photo of a 7th century textile with a lion within a roundel from the Musee Nazionale in Ravenna (42049). 198 x 250
.22 Black & white photo of a Carolingian textile fragment with Mary & Angel Gabriel from the Vatican Museum (29811). 200 x 255
.23 Black & white photo of 7th century textile fragments with a man & lion within a roundel and winged horses facing one above the other facing opposite directions from the Vatican Museum (29815). 193 x 255
.24 Black & white photo of a Carolingian textile fragment with hunters, leopards & lions from the Vatican Museum (29814). 255 x 197
.25 Black & white photo of textile fragment with hunters on horse with dogs & lions within a roundel. 243 x 220
.26 Black & white photo of textile fragment with hunters & lion within roundel. 120 x 205
.27 Black & white photo of textile fragment with hunters & lion within roundel. 177 x 240
Folder named Embroidery, Ascoli Piceno cope, 2 x white work & printed gloves:
.1 Black & white photo of Ascoli Piceno 1275-1280, 16 scenes from the lives of the popes from Clement I (90-100) to Clement IV (1265-1268). Given to Ascoli by Pope Nicholas IV (1288). 203 x 380
.2 Black & white photo of white work: detail of Lenten altar cloth with scenes from the passion of Christ (mid 13th century) 255 x 203
.3 Black & white photo of white work: stomacher 257 x 203
.4 Black & white photo of 3 early 19th century plate printed leather gloves at the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (26.90) 180 x 233
Folder named Looms:
.1 Black & white photo of a Mochica Calssic Period pottery vessel (pre-Columbian Peru 100 BC – 500AD) showing weavers with backstrap looms
.2 Black & white photo of a Chinese drawloom (illustration is from a set showing the steps in the sericulture process issued by the government in the late seventeenth century)
.3 Black & white photo of a Chinese drawloom (illustration is from a set showing the steps in the sericulture process issued by the government in the late seventeenth century)
.4 Black & white photo of a print of a weaver at a Spitalfields drawloom
.5 Black & white photo of a print of a weaver and spinner at a Spitalfields Jacquard loom in a the home
Folder named Coptic:
.1 Black & white photo of woven roundel with human figures (MWI no 8441) 133 x 210
.2 Black & white photo of 7th century woven border with birds & ram (MWI no 8875) 195 x 145
.3 Black & white photo of textile fragment with faces in repeat pattern at the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. (2808) 260 x 215
.4 Black & white photo of textile fragment with 3 figures under columned arches 198 x 240
.5 Black & white photo of textile fragment with central roundel of man & horse with border of figures with birds & fish, other figures surrounded by figures 200 x 246
.6 Black & white photo of woven roundel with Madonna & child, Joseph? and man at a well with cows & sheep. 155 x 143
.7 Black & white photo of woven square with male & female. Bordered with leaf trail within two twisted columns. 170 x 247
.8 Black & white photo of woven roundels with hare & plants. 123 x 184
.9 Black & white photo of textile fragment with field of plants, border of papyrus & a large object in the lower right hand corner. 255 x 154
.10 Black & white photo of woven bordered square containing two figures & mythical beasts. 206 x 255
.11 Black & white photo of woven border with stars & roundels bordered with small circles with human figures & animals. 255 x 195
Folder named Repeats, various fabrics to demonstrate methods of repeat:
.1 repeat notes for 1st year students by Malcolm Cocks – 10 sheets, 1978. 297 x 210
.2 Black & white photo collage of leafy pattern in square repeat. 188 x 160
.3 Black & white photo of leafy pattern in square repeat. Smaller version of .2. 150 x 15
.4 Black & white cutting showing a Lucca 14th century brocade of a mirrored repeat; verso: 4 Lucca 14th century textiles, 1 damask, 3 brocades. 170 x 230
.5 Black & white photo of square repeat. 115 x 90
.6 Black & white photo collage of Morris’ Honeysuckle square repeat pattern. 188 x 273
.7 Black & white photo of square repeat thrown by zig zag lines. 142 x 96
.8 Black & white cutting showing an 18th century Italian silk in repeat from the National Museum in Florence; verso: an 18th century German silk damask from the Arts & Crafts Museum in Dresden. 230 x 165
.9 Black & white photo collage of birds among flowers in a ½ drop repeat, very nearly square. 155 x 245
.10 Black & white photo collage of fan shapes in ½ drop repeat. 155 x 225
.11 Black & white photo collage of flower repeat in a shallow ½ drop. 185 x 155
.12 Black & white photo collage of Voysey bird in tree design in brick repeat. 218 x 190
.13 Black & white photo collage of a pomegranate stripe in square repeat. 275 x 175
.14 Black & white photo collage of a pomegranate stripe in square repeat. 285 x 222
.15 Black & white photo of an Omega Workshop design from 1913 in repeat. 245 x 195
.16 Black & white photo of a conversational Cinderella design. 90 x 130
.17 Black & white photo of a Persian Garden design in brick repeat. 130 x 105
.18 Black & white photo of a Toile de Jouy style design. 204 x 130
.19 Black & white photo of a Persian woman in a garden. 135 x 100
.20 Black & white photo of a woven bird in brick repeat. 145 x 107
.21 Black & white photo of a lily stripe pattern. 85 x 112
.22 Black & white photo of a lily stripe pattern. 85 x 120
.23 Black & white photo of a cornucopia stripe. 95 x 120
.24 Black & white photo of a pattern of columns between sunflowers. 255 x 207
.25 Black & blue photo of an early textile fragment with birds & deer in mirror pattern. 146 x 108
.26 Black & white photos stuck together showing swans among reeds in lake. 240 x 180
.27 Black & white photos stuck together of botanical drawing. 220 x 177
.28 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .27. 235 x 152
.29 Black & white photo of trailing flowers. 203 x 125
.30 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .29. 240 x 153
.31 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .30. 240 x 157
.32 Black & white photos stuck together of botanical drawing. 194 x 240
.33 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .32. 203 x 128
.34 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .32. 240 x 153
.35 Black & white photo of a wavy stripe & flowers. 203 x 130
.36 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .35. 240 x 155
.37 Black & white photo of a wavy stripe & flowers. 240 x 153
.38 Black & white photo of a wavy stripe, lace trail & flowers. 240 x 155
.39 Black & white photo of a lace & chain trail and flowers. 203 x 125
.40 Black & white photo of botanical drawing of foxglove. 187 x 120
.41 Black & white photo of branch & flowers. 203 x 130
.42 Black & white photo of baskets, branches & flowers. 204 x 130
.43 Black & white photo of bamboo. 204 x 128
.44 Black & white photo showing blow up of part of .43. 128 x 205
.45 Black & white photos stuck together of flowers. 230 x 310
.46 Black & white photo of Toile de Jouy style design. 203 x 125
.47 Black & white cutting of early 19th century woollen cloth. Verso: George IV hunting. 180 x 120
.48 Les Travaux de la Manufacture, 1783 V&A 1684-1899, used as a chair cover. 198 x 237
(See also Metropolitan Museum 26.233.8): one of the best known copperplate-printed textiles produced at the Oberkampf factory showing the complexity of the textile printing process. There are a total of fourteen different scenes depicting activities involved in the process. The designer, Jean-Baptiste Huet, and a female colleague are depicted outdoors sketching, dyers mix colors, and printers apply the printing bocks. The drying of the finished cloth on the grounds of the factory completes the picture.
Jean-Baptiste Huet, an extremely successful decorative painter, was commissioned by Oberkampf to create this design to celebrate the factory's award of the title Manufacture Royale. Huet was then named chief designer at the factory. The formula of individual scenes carefully integrated to form an overall pattern is used repeatedly in copperplate-printed textiles.
The factory at Jouy was founded in 1760 by Christophe Oberkampf (1738–1815). It was given the tile of Manufacture Royale by Louis XVI in 1783 and awarded the Legion of Honor by Napoleon I in 1806. It remained in the hands of the same family until the 1820s. Oberkampf received many other awards in recognition of the quality of Jouy's fabrics, as well as for advances in the science and technology of textile printing. The factory employed about a thousand workers during the late eighteenth century. Female workers comprised one-third to one-half the workforce at various times. Female printers earned half the pay of male printers.
.49 George der II, c.1727-1760. V&A T.229-1953.
Table cloth of linen damask. With a repeat design of the shield of arms of the City of London, a view of London and the Thames, and the crowned figure of George II on horseback. Around the figure is the inscription, 'GEORGE. DER. II. KÖNIG. IN. ENGLAND.'
