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Ordinary Madness Underwear
Collection:CSM Museum & Study Collection
Date: 1997
Designer: Andrew Groves
Dimensions:
Clothing: 9 13/16 x 9 13/16 in. (25 x 25 cm)
Medium: Nylon, rubber and iron nails
Object number: FA.13.2.CC
DescriptionBlack thong with nails protruding at front.
Statement from the designer:
This tailored, single-breasted denim jacket features a unique use of white selvedge denim along the front edges, pocket openings, and breast pocket. The jetted breast pocket is stitched over the left revere, securing it in place. The front panels showcase shoulder seams that are shifted to the back and include a diagonal seam. The back panel is cut in one long, continuous length to form a loop, and then joined together by a central back seam.
One of the defining features of the jacket is the decoration of the sleeves with masonry nails, which increase in intensity from the upper sleeve down to the cuff, where they become more densely packed. These nails, sourced from Travis Perkins in Kings Cross, were a recurring motif throughout the collection, including the finale outfit, which was entirely covered in nails.
The collection, titled "Ordinary Madness", draws inspiration from the book of the same name by Charles Bukowski. Thematically, the collection explores mental health, pain, and the interplay between internal and external struggles. The nails represent a physical embodiment of inner turmoil and emotional pain.
This concept is partly inspired by Japanese Wara Ningyō dolls, commonly associated with the Ushi no Koku Mairi ritual, where nails are used to symbolically harm the doll and transfer emotional pain or anger onto a target. The use of nails in the garment reflects this symbolic violence, playing with the boundary between inner suffering and its external manifestation.
Other striking elements of the collection include models with hairstyles that evoke unsettling imagery: one model had a ponytail that appeared to pierce the back of her head and exit through her mouth, while another's long ponytail formed a noose around her neck, further amplifying the themes of tension and distress present in the collection.
The jacket and underwear were donated to Central Saint Martins (CSM) as part of an arrangement with course director Louise Wilson. In exchange for the donation, Louise agreed to waive Groves’ outstanding fees, which were estimated to be around £500.
Statement from the designer:
This tailored, single-breasted denim jacket features a unique use of white selvedge denim along the front edges, pocket openings, and breast pocket. The jetted breast pocket is stitched over the left revere, securing it in place. The front panels showcase shoulder seams that are shifted to the back and include a diagonal seam. The back panel is cut in one long, continuous length to form a loop, and then joined together by a central back seam.
One of the defining features of the jacket is the decoration of the sleeves with masonry nails, which increase in intensity from the upper sleeve down to the cuff, where they become more densely packed. These nails, sourced from Travis Perkins in Kings Cross, were a recurring motif throughout the collection, including the finale outfit, which was entirely covered in nails.
The collection, titled "Ordinary Madness", draws inspiration from the book of the same name by Charles Bukowski. Thematically, the collection explores mental health, pain, and the interplay between internal and external struggles. The nails represent a physical embodiment of inner turmoil and emotional pain.
This concept is partly inspired by Japanese Wara Ningyō dolls, commonly associated with the Ushi no Koku Mairi ritual, where nails are used to symbolically harm the doll and transfer emotional pain or anger onto a target. The use of nails in the garment reflects this symbolic violence, playing with the boundary between inner suffering and its external manifestation.
Other striking elements of the collection include models with hairstyles that evoke unsettling imagery: one model had a ponytail that appeared to pierce the back of her head and exit through her mouth, while another's long ponytail formed a noose around her neck, further amplifying the themes of tension and distress present in the collection.
The jacket and underwear were donated to Central Saint Martins (CSM) as part of an arrangement with course director Louise Wilson. In exchange for the donation, Louise agreed to waive Groves’ outstanding fees, which were estimated to be around £500.
